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#26 2015-10-08 02:55:43

jt
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From: Bermuda Triangle, NC USA
Registered: 2014-05-21
Posts: 1,391

Re: The PDX acquisitions!

Check out the wire poles for the little surveyor's flags/sprinkler markers for lawn aeration. Flexibility/stiffness seems about right, IIRC. It's that time of year again and somebody will have one or two to toss soon. wink

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#27 2015-10-08 03:32:39

bbraun
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Registered: 2014-05-29
Posts: 1,064
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Re: The PDX acquisitions!

Heh, yeah.  I'll have to try out some things.  There are two clips at the bottom of the keyboard that hold the wire in place, but allow it to rotate as the key goes up and down.  That pretty much determines the diameter the wire, since it needs to clip into those.  The paperclip is a bit too small (and flexes a little too much).  I'll see if I can find something roughly appropriate at the hardware store.

I think this model is more or less functional, once I get a suitable metal bar:
a2espacebar.png

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#28 2015-10-08 03:44:45

bbraun
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Registered: 2014-05-29
Posts: 1,064
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Re: The PDX acquisitions!

On the /// front, I've determined those two key switches with the keys missing are pretty much toast.
I think I've identified the key switch as Alps Short Stem part number 705-0015, which was also used in some //e's:
a2keyswitches.png

As seen in that diagram, these key switches have a removable adapter at the top that converts from the T-like top of the switch to the + of the keycap.  The capslock key has the stem broken off flush with the top of the keyswitch, and the R key has the stem broken off at what would be the bottom of the adapter.

I've tried disassembling the key switches themselves to see if it would be reasonable to create a model of the plastic stems.  The capslock key is definitely not something I'd want to model and print.  There are intricate paths molded into the inner stem to make the locking mechanism work.  The normal keyswitch, I might be able to model, but if I have to get a capslock switch, I may as well get a normal switch as well.
I found a seller on ebay that happened to have both of these available, so I ordered those keyswitches.  Unfortunately, I couldn't find any of the adapters.  Fortunately, I have ones that work, and they are simple enough to model fairly easily:
a2stemadapter.png

Now hopefully when the keyswitches arrive, I'll just need to make 2 keycaps and it'll be good to go.

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#29 2015-10-09 00:58:50

bbraun
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Registered: 2014-05-29
Posts: 1,064
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Re: The PDX acquisitions!

On the //e side, I got a section of 14ga solid core wire from the hardware store, and it fits in those clips on the keyboard just fine.  It seems to work great at keeping the spacebar level regardless of where the keyboard is pressed.
The spacebar doesn't seem to be returning to the "up" position very well, so I need to investigate that a bit.  It could be the printed key is too heavy for the spring, or the support legs are rubbing and causing too much drag, or the wire is too tight in those clips and not rotating freely enough.  So, still have some things to check on that.

I got a 25 pin straight through cable today and hooked up the profile drive.  It powers up and I get the Ready light.  I'm a little unfamiliar with how to access it from the ///, but my best guess is the System Utilities disk doesn't have the profile driver on it.  I've used ADTPro to transfer a disk containing the profile driver, but in order to load it onto the System Utilities disk, I need to type the name of the file, which is "PROFILE.DRIVER".  Sadly, my 'r' key is broken, so I can't actually type that right now.  Rather than try to desolder and change around keyswitches to have the right keys ('z' doesn't seem frequently used...), I think I'll wait until the new keyswitches arrive.

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#30 2015-10-09 03:57:52

bbraun
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Registered: 2014-05-29
Posts: 1,064
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Re: The PDX acquisitions!

YES!  Finally got that spacebar right.

The OpenSCAD source file is here: a2spacebar.scad
The STL file for printing is here: a2spacebar.stl
The source file is modified a bunch from this design on thingiverse.

In the final revision, I moved the holes in the spacebar supports down a bit so the arms of the metal bar sit as close as possible to level when the key is depressed.  I also thinned it a bit to keep the weight down and give the keyswitch spring a break.
I had to sand down parts of the 14AWG wire I used so the arms of the metal bar could move freely and weren't constricted by the clips.

With those final changes, the spacebar is now pretty darn usable.  I have no idea if the shape is correct, but hey.  Usable keyboard!

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#31 2015-10-09 13:31:10

jt
Member
From: Bermuda Triangle, NC USA
Registered: 2014-05-21
Posts: 1,391

Re: The PDX acquisitions!

Mazel Tov! smile

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#32 2015-10-10 19:53:01

bbraun
Member
Registered: 2014-05-29
Posts: 1,064
Website

Re: The PDX acquisitions!

Key switches arrived, and they work great!
I think my key model could use some tweaking to match the Apple ///'s keyboard, but it works for the moment.

I was able to test out the profile...  It doesn't seem to work.  I'm not sure if it's because of the straight through db25 cable I'm using, or if the drive just doesn't work.  The drive powers up and the "Ready" light comes on, but whenever the drive is accessed, the ready light goes out, and errors happen.  Eventually the Ready light will come back on without any activity (like it was resetting its self).
I wonder if that could be a power supply issue.  It has enough power to spin up, but when it's accessed, it goes sideways.

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#33 2015-10-11 00:34:30

bbraun
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Registered: 2014-05-29
Posts: 1,064
Website

Re: The PDX acquisitions!

So, I (mostly) recapped the PSU using what caps I had on hand.  It works, but didn't fix the issue.  I left the drive on for a couple hours, since the ProFile Owner's Guide says you should just leave it on unless you're not going to use it for an extended period.  A couple hours later, I went to try to reformat the drive.  It had the same problem, the Ready light would go out and the command would fail, the drive would reset its self, and the Ready light would come on again.  I tried this a couple times, and the drive started making a bunch of clattering noises.  Figuring it probably wouldn't get any worse than its already "not working" state, I let it do its thing.  Eventually, a format command succeeded.  I guess it was a little sticky from having sat for so long, and the combined heat of running for a couple hours, and the repeated access attempts finally unstuck it.

I noticed printed on the controller board it said 10MB.  I guess this is a 10MB drive, although when formatted, it formats to 9XXX blocks, which would be about 5MB I think.  There might be something I need to edit in the driver to make it know about 10MB?

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